Haunted Mansion of the Peshwas - Shaniwar Wada

                                        

Shaniwar Wada,Pune
  Hello friends!!! Today I like to share about the Haunted mansion of Peshwas-Shaniwar Wada. Shaniwar wada is Pune's pride. My non-punekar friends always ask me questions about Shaniwar Wada. Is Shaniwar Wada Haunted? Who built this? why did they have a fire there? who is NarayanRao Peshwas? who is Anandibai? why is everyone afraid of Shaniwar Wada at full moon night? Oops.. they are all very annoying to me...😏So, let's explore the Haunted Mansion of the Peshwas-Shaniwar Wada....let's start with the real history...

family tree of Peshwa's at Shaniwar Wada, Pune

 History of Shaniwar Wada...

Shaniwar Wada was built by Peshwa Baji Rao I, a general under Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj of the Maratha Empire. He laid the foundation of the site in 1730 and the construction was completed in 1732. Initially, it was intended to be a colossal seven-storied palace made of stones. However, after the construction of the base floor, the people of the national capital complained to the king that only he was authorized to build stone palaces. Consequently, the remaining floors were constructed using bricks. The full impact of this was felt when the British artillery attacked the palace 90 years after its construction. Except for the base floor which was constructed using stones, no other floor could stand the attack and all the top stories collapsed.   

Over the years after its construction, the Peshwas made many additions to the mansion, such as fortification walls with gateways and bastions, reservoirs, court halls, fountains, and other structures. The palace was also a witness to several significant episodes in the history of the Peshwas. In 1773, the fifth Peshwa, Narayan Rao, was murdered inside this palace by his guards at the behest of Raghunath Rao, his uncle, and Anandibai, his aunt. That’s not all! It was also where the romance between Peshwa Bajirao and Mastani Sahiba blossomed.

In 1818, the British East India Company gained control over the Wada following their win in the Third Anglo-Maratha War. On 27th February 1828, the palace was engulfed by a huge unexplained fire, causing extensive damage to the whole structure. After the fire doused, only the massive granite ramparts, deep foundations, and a few teak gateways and erections remained of the grand mansion. The structures that survived this massive fire outbreak are currently maintained as tourist sites.


Fires..


1791 – A major fire broke in the Wada, devouring 5 levels.

1808 – Fire that destroyed all the important artifacts and documents in the palace.

1812  Fire that destroyed two stories, a warehouse, and Asmani Mahal.

1813 – Fire that destroyed the Royal Hall.

1828 – The fifth and biggest fire is said to have lasted a week.

Haunted story of Shaniwar Wada...

If you noticed the name of this post, I use the word haunted. This palace is well known for its haunted story - the ghost of Peshwa Narayan Rao that roams along the abandoned passage of this palace following his gruesome murder. The story starts with Peshwa Narayan Rao having differences with his uncle Raghunath Rao and aunt Anandibai and putting them under house arrest. To secure his own release, the uncle conspired with some tribal hunters (gardhi) and sent a message to them saying - "Narayan Rao la dhara". The message meant- "Hold Narayan Rao" but before it reached the hunters, the message was changed to "Narayan Rao la mara" which means "kill Narayanrao" by Ragunathrao's wife Anandibai. when hunters got this message as soon as they enter the palaces and kill the 13years Narayanrao. They say that since 13years young Peshwa Narayanrao's spirit was not released properly, he returned as a ghost, who roams around these palaces, shouting- "Kaka mala Vachva". Meaning "Please save me uncle" - a cry that was unheeded by his uncle, when he did indeed run to him for help .The Pune residents around this area swear that these voices can be still heard on full moon nights because when this all happened that night was full moon night.

Architecture of Shaniwar Wada...

Shaniwar Wada features the Maratha Imperial architectural style. For the construction, teak was sourced from the Junnar jungles while lime was brought from the Jejuri lime belts and stones from the Chinchwad quarries. 

Shaniwar Wada stone carvings

Small staircases of Shaniwar Wada

The fortification wall of the palace had five entry points and nine bastion towers. The palace was designed with intricately carved teak doorways, exquisitely designed teak pillars, and marble floors. Scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata adorned its walls while glass chandeliers hung from the ceilings. Within the palace complex, the Ganpati Rang Mahal was erected as a separate place for observing religious functions. It had a massive statue of Lord Ganesha.
Ganesh Rang Mahal,Shaniwar wada

A majestic fountain shaped like a lotus, called Hazari Karanja or the Fountain of a Thousand Jets, adorned the palace complex. It is believed to have been the most exquisite fountain of that era whose jets formed 80 feet-high arches. The Thorlya Rayancha Diwankhana or the court reception hall of Baji Rao I, the Juna Arsa Mahal or the Mirror Hall, and the Naachacha Diwankhana or the Dance Hall were some of the other splendid structures that existed within the palace.

inside view of shaniwar wada
The hall above the entrance gate of Shaniwar Wada

Five Gates of Shaniwar Wada..

  1. Dilli Darwaza.
  2. Mastani Gate.
  3. Khidki Darwaza.
  4. Narayan Darwaza.
  5. Ganesh Darwaza.
1. Dilli Darwaza....
             
Dilli Darwaza of Shaniwar Wada,Pune

Also, known as Dilli Gate, so-called as it faces Delhi to the North. This is the current entrance to the palace as well. They say that the gate was considered to be a reflection of Bali Rao's sentiments towards the Mughals. Essentially, he hoped to overthrow them. The gate is designed such that an elephant that charged towards the closed gate would be instantly crushed to death. However, the gate was tall enough for an elephant with a howdah to enter with permission.

2. Mastani Gate...

          The Mastani Gate is the 2nd gate, which is again to the north. Smaller than the Delhi gate, this is so named as it was used by Bajirao's favorite wife- Masthani to enter and leave the palace.

3. Khidki Darwaza...
        
khidki Darwaza at shaniwar wada

  Also, known as Window gate is to the East of the palace and now faces, Lal Mahal. The palace that Chhatrapati Shivaji grew up in. The small window on the door is the reason for this name. I hope that it was used as a gate to receive messages or things.

4. Ganesh Darwaza...
          
Ganesh Darwaza at Shaniwar Wada, Pune

facing south-east Named for the Ganesh Rang Mahal, which used to stand near this door. It could be used by ladies at the fort to visit the nearby Kasba Ganpati temple.

5. Narayan Darwaza...
        
Narayan Darwaza

Also, known as the Jambhul gate facing south. This gate was used by concubines to enter and eave the fort. It obtained its second name after NarayanRao Peshwa's corpse was removed from the fort the cremation through this gate.


      Hazari Karanje Fountain.......

             Hazari Karanje means a Fountain of thousand jets. A fountain that was one of the most enviable ones of those times. Made for the amusement of Peshwa baby- Sawai Madhavrao Peshwa, this fountain is said to be shaped like a lotus with 16 petals, with numerous jets emerging from each petal and spraying water over an 80-foot high arch. Here is what one of the British visitors to the palace
-Captain Moor- have to say about it...

                             "very magnificent. A hundred dancers can dance here at a time.
                               In one corner is a marble Ganapati statue and the palace is flanked by  a                                 fountain and a flower garden."

Hazari Karanje Fountain, Shaniwar Wada


Shaniwar wada-Lights and sound show...

Among the key attractions at the palace is the light and sound show held here in the evenings. The show brings alive the bygone era in a visually appealing manner and provides information about the palace and the rule of the Peshwas. The shows are held in both Marathi and English.

  • Duration: 55 minutes
  • Ticket Booking Timings: 6:30 pm to 8:30 pm
  • Show Timings: Marathi – 7:15 pm to 8.10 pm; English – 8:15 pm to 9.10 pm
  • Ticket Prices: ₹25 per head.
light and sound show
lights view at the time of Diwali

Shaniwar Wada Today...
Inside view of shaniwar wada

Cannon at shaniwar wada

Shaniwar Wada is often not high on the list of must-visit monuments for history enthusiasts in India. This can be blamed on the combination of destruction by fire, the consequent neglect by the British, and the relative apathy of the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) and PMC (Pune Municipal Corporation) towards the Shaniwar Wada. A sound and light show, which was popular among visitors, was discontinued after 2009 for reasons best known only to PMC and ASI.

Travel Tips.....

  • Shaniwar Wada is open on all days between 8:00 am to 6:30pm on all days. There are evening and night light shows which I mentioned above.
  • The entrance tickets to this palace are just INR 5 per Indian and INR 125 for a foreigner. There are no camera charges here. There is no advance booking and tickets can be availed on the spot.
  • Wear comfortable shoes as there is a fair amount of walking to be done. The pathways are rugged and not very friendly for the handicapped or kids too.
  • There is no food or water available within Shaniwar Wada. You need to buy the same from outside. A plea from me-to please not litter the place and drop tour trash in a proper waste bin.
  • Restrooms are there within the campus at one or two points.
  • The one thing I recommend is walking atop the entire perimeter of Shaniwar Wada. It allows you a lovely view of the entire palace campus. Be careful when you are walking along the walls as they same are quite open and while the pathways are safe and stable, one side of the wall is quite low.


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